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Most people associate the word “spa” with the modern concept of wellness, a place for massages, peelings and pampering. The equivalent word in Czech, “lázně,” has a more-nuanced meaning. Here, the focus is more explicitly medical. People often go to the spa (or are sent by doctors) to recover from illness or to treat a specific malady.

For years, I had written about the Czech Republic’s rich spa tradition, particularly famous resorts like Karlovy Vary (Karlsbad) and Mariánské Lázně (Marienbad), but I never thought I’d ever “take the waters” myself. In July, though, I was diagnosed with myopathy in my leg muscles and handed a long list of referrals for rehab treatments. Rather than run from clinic to clinic in Prague, I figured I would find a place that offered all the treatments under one roof. A friend kindly did some research for me on the “Beethoven” spa in the city of Teplice, which specializes in muscle and mobility disorders. On September 19, 2024, I checked in for a two-week stay. This is how it went.