Though I promise "Travel & Adventure in Central Europe" on my blog, in fact I still have a few regional blind spots. I haven't been to Belarus yet, and big parts of Ukraine are still on the "to do" list. For years, the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad -- that little piece of ex-USSR wedged between Poland and Lithuania and far from the Russian mainland (see map plot, below) -- stood out like a sore thumb. Thanks to a Lonely Planet research project, I managed to cross it off the list last summer, but the trip left me scratching my head about why we travel in the first place. Truth be told, there aren’t many "must-sees" there, but maybe that’s beside the point. It’s a fascinating place to visit in its own right, and part of the fascination is that it exists at all.