When I told a friend recently I was heading to the far-eastern edge of the Czech Republic to visit Ostrava, she suggested I make a side trip to the Czech-Silesian mining town of Havířov, about 12 miles (20 km) east of there. I'd scarcely heard of the place. When I asked her why, she said something like "check out the train station before they knock it down." I guess she knows my taste in architecture pretty well. It's an amazing piece of retro-futurism in the style that Czechs call "Brussels," after the 'Brussels '58 World's Fair' -- and barely hanging on by a thread.