This leg of the journey took me over the border from Bayfield, Wisconsin, on the shores of Lake Superior, to Superior's behemoth port at Duluth, Minnesota. From Duluth, I made my way north along the shoreline up to Grand Marais. From there, I moved into the interior, hitting the hipster town of Ely (pronounced "eel-lee," gateway to the Boundary Waters) and the old mining town of Hibbing (the place Bob Dylan misspent his teenage years). After that, I bounced around and eventually wound up in southern Minnesota, at the über-charming port of Stillwater and the more down-to-earth Red Wing (where they still make the shoes). I marked up a couple of Google maps to show you the journey (above), but good luck trying to figure it out.
Duluth has been on my bucket list since I was a kid and pouring over maps and road atlases of the United States. It always looked so "north" to me, I wondered what kind of city could spring up in such isolated conditions (I know, strong words for a person from Ohio). What I found was a surprisingly dynamic port that's transitioning quickly from heavy industry to tourism. It has the lake views and foodie and craft-beer scenes to make it all work.
Both Duluth and Hibbing, actually, have close bonds to my hometown of Youngstown, Ohio. Duluth was the port that shipped the iron ore that powered the Youngstown mills for decades. Hibbing was where the ore came from. One of the Hibbing mines even bears the name "Mahoning," the name of the Ohio county where I grew up.
As I traveled around the state, it became increasingly clear that April is really between-time in these parts. Too late for winter hikes and snow-shoeing and too soon for summer activities like biking and kayaking. The resorts, parks and rivers along the way were pretty empty. While I did manage to get out into the fresh air here and there, I decided to focus my attention (and my lens) on the towns I was passing through.
I've always had a thing for American small towns. They're pretty generic, with their "Main Streets" and rows of two- and three-story brick buildings on both sides, but that familiar streetscape hides some remarkable diversity. Each place is different in its own same way, and it was those differences I was trying to find as I bounced from place to place. Minnesota has plenty of great small towns.
The pics here (in no particular order) are some favorites from Duluth, Grand Marais, Ely, Hibbing, Stillwater and Red Wing.
I received this comment via email from an old friend with a soft spot for small towns:
Ah, Duluth looked awesome with clear cold skies — probably no pollen — like in NYC right now.
Winter is my favorite season anymore — allergies rough this year. Pristine air looked great.
Your trip looked interesting, I liked those old towns. Loved the Bob Dylan stuff, too.
Every old town now has an “arts district”, kind of becoming a cliche, but good to see the revitalization!
I think that small town gems off the beaten path should be the millennials’ trademark approach to travel – — to counter the baby boomers’ resorts and self- indulgent high living, exotic place trend —
maybe you can start the trend by writing articles targeting the millennial hipster marketplace.
Can’t wait for the Ohio Rust Belt Lonely Planet edition.
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I’m a born and raised Duluthian and a frequent visitor to all of the places mentioned in your article. You have an excellent eye and a refreshing attitude. Thanks and “Have a nice day”.?