It might be the medieval architecture or the riverside setting, the youthful atmosphere or — arguably — the world’s best beer. Whatever the reason, the Czech capital is a perennial favourite. The good news is that the shortfall in rooms of a decade ago is no longer an issue. Plenty of new hotels have opened, standards have risen, and prices have moderated. Properties in the central Old Town feature historic settings and period details. For an authentic local feel, consider one of Prague’s residential quarters, like elegant Vinohrady or artsy Holešovice. Wherever you decide to stay, efficient public transport is always close at hand to whisk you about.
W Prague Hotel
Best for: fashionistas
The long-awaited reopening of the art nouveau Grand Hotel Evropa in 2024 as part of Marriott’s W brand was Prague’s biggest hotel event of the past decade. A careful renovation left intact the stained glass, chandeliers, marbled walls and wood panelling in the adjoining cafe, now an excellent steakhouse. Meanwhile, it injected the lobby and 161 rooms with the W’s trademark bold colour and flair. Amenities include a sauna with hot and cold pools and a rooftop terrace with fetching views over Prague’s golden spires. The location on central Wenceslas Square puts you mere steps away from most of the city’s main sights. Rooms from 10,690 Kč (£358).
Hotel Klarov Prague
Best for: affordable elegance
A serene garden at the back, ideal for coffee, is one of many pleasant surprises awaiting guests at this boutique hotel. The location is another: a quiet corner of the Lesser Town (Malá Strana), across the street from steps leading to Prague Castle and just over the bridge from the Old Town. The building dates from 1884, and the elegant lobby, with crystal chandeliers, is a fine example of fin de siècle elegance. Each room is named for a famous musician who’s performed in the city, from Cher to Elton John, but that seems beside the point. The real stars here are the rooms themselves, filled with light and offering views of the castle or the blue-green, baroque dome of St Nicholas Church. Rooms from €107 (£89), B&B.
Mama Shelter Prague
Best for: cheeky retro
The urban, playful Mama Shelter hotel group has lacquered over a communist-era, 1960s high-rise in colourful coats of irony. Eye-catching, mid-century modern decor meshes nicely with the building’s boxy, angular features. The result is a spirited, stylish update that invests the space with new energy while remaining faithful to the brand’s original purpose of providing affordable lodgings. The 238 rooms lean into this time-warp appeal, with pop art carpets and angular desks and chairs. A games room off the lobby and a breakfast nook with communal seating help create a social mood. The location, in Prague’s up-and-coming Holešovice art quarter, the former meatpacking district, fits the general atmosphere to a tee. Rooms from €101 (£84).
Miss Sophie’s Downtown
Best for: style on a budget
Part of a small local chain, Miss Sophie’s Downtown hums with youthful energy. The hotel is divided into two buildings. Rooms and public areas in the ‘modern’ wing, set in an inner courtyard, feature a clean, industrial look, with hanging lights and exposed metal fittings. The ‘historic’ building riffs on the property’s location, across the street from Prague’s main train station. Rooms here evoke the Orient Express, with Persian throws and earth-tone textiles on the walls. The central location is ideal. Rooms from 2,419 Kč (£110).
Buddha-Bar Hotel
Best for: pleasure-seekers
The Buddha-and-dragon decor here hints at more of a pleasure palace than a mystic temple. Indeed, indulgence is the theme at this 35-room boutique hotel, spread out over four floors of a renovated art nouveau townhouse in a quiet corner of the Old Town. Rooms feature soft leather sofas and plush velvet curtains, as well as free-standing, ornately tiled baths and mini-bars stocked with bottles of bubbly. The pampering extends to the steam baths and massage rooms of the lower-level spa, and the 1pm cut-off time for breakfast. You’d be hard-pressed to find a more comforting retreat after a day pounding the cobblestones. Rooms from €229 (£195).
Hotel Josef
Best for: architecture
The creation of UK-based, Czech-born Eva Jiřičná, Hotel Josef highlights the architect’s signature use of glass and steel to create a light, airy aesthetic, which carries through from the lobby and street-level bar to the 109 rooms. Splash out on an upper-floor suite, with balconies, floor-to-ceiling windows and views over the Old Town. Warm textiles and limestone accents soften the ubiquitous white interior, while furnishings like tubular Marcel Brauer chairs show a commitment to quality. Rooms from 5,110 Kč (£171).
Hotel Residence Agnes
Best for: friendly service
Staff at this 21-room property, within easy walking distance of Old Town Square, take pride in making guests feel at home. Small touches include free transfers from the train station and car rides across the river up to Prague Castle. The setting is a tastefully renovated townhouse (hence the ‘residence’ in the name), with an elegant atrium ceiling covering the lobby and breakfast area. The building was once connected to the nearby 13th-century Convent of St Agnes, now home to the National Gallery Prague’s superb collection of medieval art. Rooms feature muted brown and blue accents. Fourth-floor options at the top of the building are smaller but good value; room 405 features a glimpse of the castle. Rooms from €205 (£171).
Boho Hotel Prague
Best for: minimalism
The mood is hushed at this 57-room hotel, a couple of blocks from Powder Tower, the landmark entryway to the Old Town. In a city that can feel overrun in high season, everything at the Boho feels carefully engineered to take the edge off. Rooms are done out in neutral colours and light woods, pepped up by large-format city shots. Relax in the library off the lobby, warmed by a fireplace in winter; sample local wines at daily in-house tastings; or decompress in the marble, lower-level wellness pool. Rooms from €255 (£213).
Hotel Anna
Best for: going local
The location in Prague’s outlying Vinohrady neighbourhood, on a tree-lined street close to some of the city’s best cafes and restaurants, is the main selling point of this 26-room, family-run hotel. It occupies a brightly renovated, 19th-century apartment building on a quiet block just around the corner from the transport hub of Náměstí Míru (Peace Square). Beautiful parks, like Riegrovy sady and Havlíčkovy sady, are an easy walk away, while Old Town Square lies just three stops away on the metro. The graceful rooms are simply furnished but spotlessly clean and feature period details like decorative mouldings and high ceilings. Start the day with the hotel breakfast, served in a winter garden surrounded by greenery. Rooms from €57 (£47).
The Manes
Best for: design gurus
Located near the river, this 50-room hotel is named after 19th-century Czech landscape painter Josef Mánes, but the real inspiration might well be Italian surrealist Piero Fornasetti. The artist’s signature black-and-white decorative plates line the entry hall, and his ethos of fusing traditional and modern informs every design choice. The setting, a renovated neo-Renaissance apartment, checks the classic box. The lobby, a dark library space with an abstract chandelier, hits an eclectic, arty note. Rooms are done out in calming greys, enlivened by colourful pillows and throws. Rooms from €157 (£131).
Did you like the story and want to add your own experiences? Or maybe help me to correct something I didn’t get right? Write me at bakermark@fastmail.fm.
