Whenever I tell people about the Globe and once co-owning a bookstore/coffeehouse, the reaction is always the same. “A bookstore and a coffeehouse? OMG, That’s my dream job!” And my reaction is usually the same too. I push back gently with a variation of the old adage: “Be careful what you wish for.”
The night of our opening party, July 28, 1993, wasn’t just the culmination of a frantic four months of preparation to open a business, it was the starting point for what would prove to be a long process of work and learning that would eventually take its toll on all five of the original partners. Looking back, we were so swept up in the positive energy of early-‘90s Prague that I don’t think any us truly grasped the commitment we’d entered into. Anyone who’s ever owned a business will know what I’m talking about.
I was perhaps the worst of the five. Less than a year after opening the Globe, I came to the conclusion that I wasn’t cut out to be a business owner and wanted to return to full-time journalism. Much to the bafflement of my partners and friends in Prague, one day in May 1994, I announced I was heading home to the United States to look for a job with a newspaper or wire service. I would keep my stake in the business, but my career focus would be elsewhere.
And that’s what I did. That summer, I moved back to my parents’ house in Ohio (the proverbial parental basement), and after a long period of frantically searching for work, eventually landed a spot as an editor with Bloomberg News. My first job with Bloomberg was located in a relatively remote corner of rural New Jersey, outside of Princeton (about as far from Prague spiritually as you could get). I was later transferred to Bloomberg's home office in New York, which was a big upgrade, but even then I missed the close-knit community I'd had at the Globe. Eventually, my homesickness for Prague would get the better of me and at the end of 1996, I returned to Central Europe.
A few months ago, as I was paging through some Facebook comments and photos from my earlier blog post, I realized there were many stories and photos that I couldn’t recall, and then it dawned on me why. By moving back to the U.S. when I did, I’d missed a lot of what had happened in those early days.
Although I love coffee, I was always more closely attached to the book side of our business than the coffeehouse, and most of my memories and stories revolve around buying and selling books and holding our sporadic evening readings.
Back in the day, people would often ask me where we (the Globe) would source our books (they were referring to our used books, as it was pretty clear we bought new books from publishers and wholesalers).
Indeed, finding quality used books and shipping them to Prague was never easy. First off, we had to locate books that our customers – mainly expats, backpackers, and Czechs – would actually want to buy. Back then that meant lots of John Irving titles (“The World According to Garp”) and Czech writers in translation (and not too many shiny-cover romances and bodice-rippers). And then there was the question of cost. Even for the best books, our market wouldn’t usually support a price of above a few dollars. We had to be ever vigilant in looking for suppliers. That led us on more than a few wild-goose chases over the years.
One of our most memorable but least-successful book-finding trips was a seven-hour drive to Stuttgart, Germany, that Jasper, Maura and I took in my newly bought Škoda in the summer of 1993. A sketchy, middle-aged American guy named “Larry” had come through Prague just as we were opening up and said he had “warehouses and warehouses” of used books in Germany, and that he’d be happy to sell them to us for “10 cents a kilo.” He told us he was involved in decommissioning U.S. military bases in southern Germany, so it wasn’t such a stretch to think he might have books to sell.
Fast-forward to Stuttgart, and in my mind’s eye, we’re partying with Larry and some his friends in his sleazy, ‘70s-era mansion that looked as if you might find Hugh Hefner (minus the bunnies) floating around in a bathrobe. As for the books, Larry did have kilos, but they turned out to mainly grade-school math and science textbooks for the kids on the base. The U.S. military would no longer need the books once the soldiers returned home. The problem is, even at 10 cents a kilo, we’d never be able to sell them in Prague.
We ended up sourcing most of our used books in the United States, and all five partners had stories of stuffing those big U.S. postal service "M" bags with books and shipping them off to Prague on their trips home. I got my whole family in on the act, and my parents and brother got quite adept over the years at filling up those army-green duffel bags.
One of my favorite book-buying stories is a trip that Jasper and I took in 1995 or ’96 to Riverrun Books, a private bookshop in Hastings-On-Hudson, north of New York City. I was living in New York at the time and Jasper was passing through town. We met up and caught the train upriver to see what we could find.
It was indeed a major haul. Riverrun had exactly the kind of high-quality paperbacks we knew we could sell, and they were willing to make deals. Feverishly working in their storeroom at the back, the two of us uncrated box after box and neatly stacked all the titles we’d be buying and shipping back to Europe. And then we hit what we thought was the jackpot of all time: a carton filled with books and labeled on top: “Central Europe” or "Eastern Europe" (or something like this).
English translations of books by Czechs or other Central European writers were our bread and butter at The Globe. We simply couldn’t keep these titles in stock, and we salivated at the prospect of making some easy sales.
And then we opened the box. Much to our shock and amusement it was filled with porn. Loads of porn. Someone had clearly tried to hide the contents by giving the box the most unappetizing label they could think of.
Our author readings were another high point for me.
It’s hard to imagine now, but Prague back then was still in the early phases of its re-opening to the world, and it seemed as if every international author coming to this part of Europe would swing through town. Once they were here, as an English-language bookstore, we were one of the few games around if they wanted to read or meet their public.
In that first year of operation, the Globe hosted readings or visits by Allen Ginsberg, Amy Tan, Julian Barnes, Martin Amis, James Salter, James Ragan and several others I can’t remember now. Over the years, that list would expand to resemble a “Who’s Who” of famous authors.
Czech and other local writers came by as well. It was their chance to meet a new readership. Well-known Czechs like Ivan Klíma, Arnošt Lustig, Ludvík Vaculík and Jáchym Topol, as well as resident Prague authors like Prague Post Editor-in-Chief Alan Levy and Robert Eversz, among others, would drop in during those early days to see what all the fuss was about.
Our readings were always highly improvised affairs. We’d clear out the bookstore of stray customers, pull out some old benches we kept stored in the cellar, and set up an impromptu reading space in a cramped, sweaty corner of the shop. As the speaker was reading, the din from the coffeehouse would invariably pour through the walls and the coffee grinder would pierce its way through every poignant pause. It was comical.
The best events, of course, were when the writers would arrive unannounced.
One afternoon I was working in the bookstore with Jasper (Maura, Scott and Markéta could also have been there, but I can’t recall now), when a tall, thin guy with wavy, graying hair and an uncanny resemblance to the Pulitzer-prize-winning American writer Richard Ford strode in with a smile on his face. Jasper and I looked at each other. Could it be?
I remember quietly walking over to the fiction section where authors whose last names began with “F” would be shelved and finding a copy of one of Ford’s paperbacks. A quick glance at the author photo revealed it was, indeed, Richard Ford.
A couple of minutes later we approached him, introduced ourselves as the owners, and asked if he’d like to do a reading. He (surprisingly) accepted, and within the five minutes it took to rearrange the chairs in the coffeehouse, he was reading aloud from his collection of short stories, “Wildlife.” Even though the place was (much) less than half full, it was a magical moment.
It only occurred to me how truly special this all was months later after I had made that rash decision in 1994 to leave Prague and was standing at a magazine rack at a drugstore in my hometown of Youngstown, Ohio. Those first few weeks back home in Ohio were lonelier than I’d bargained for, and I spent many an hour killing time at the local shopping plaza and leafing through books and magazines. On this particular day, I noticed one magazine in the rack, Vogue, had the word “Prague” on its cover. Eager to see what was happening in the place I’d left not long ago, I started reading it.
The article, by another prize-winning American writer, Edmund White, was an artful description of Prague’s beauty and rebirth. And then I got to the part in the story where White began describing a surprise reading by the author Richard Ford that had happened a few months before at a bookstore called “The Globe.” I nearly fell over. I was reading about our own reading.
People sometimes ask what was the most unexpected thing about being involved with the Globe. That’s hard to say, but something that always surprises me is how many people met their eventual life partners over a book or coffee at the Globe. I’ve lost count over the years of how many times people have “thanked” me for the Globe because otherwise they may never have met their husband or wife. Believe me, it was purely unintended, but it does make you think about the consequences of any of our actions. One of the first of these Globe couples was the union of partners Scott and Markéta Rogers, who were married in Prague just two years after we opened the store. The New York Times announcement popped up on the first Google search.
Sometimes these expressions of gratitude occur in the most unlikely of places.
In those few weeks in May and June 1994, between when I told my Globe partners I was leaving Prague and I actually flew off for the U.S., I took a few solo trips around the Czech Republic to say goodbye to the country and get my last fill of the place. One of those trips was to the southern Bohemian town of Český Krumlov, about 160 km (100 miles) south of Prague.
I can’t remember if I drove the three hours down or took the bus (I can’t even remember why I chose Český Krumlov for one of my goodbye trips – I probably wouldn’t do that now). Anyway, I got a room upstairs at Na Louži, a friendly pub in the center of town, and went down to the restaurant to get a beer. I had just settled in to my table and was startled to see a Prague friend, John Allison, sitting across the room and having a beer with a guy I didn’t recognize. It’s not unusual to run into friends by chance in Prague (it happens every day), but in Český Krumlov it felt like an odd coincidence.
John invited me over to his table and introduced me to his friend (whose name now neither of us can remember). We chatted for a while and John mentioned I was one of the co-owners of the Globe. The guy's eyes lit up.
“You know,” he said, or possibly slurred (by then I remember the beers were starting to take their toll), something to the effect: “The Globe has a special place in my heart.”
“How so?” I asked (maybe a little too skeptically – I‘ve been in these pub discussions before).
“That was the place I first met my wife."
And then he related a charming story about how they got together. Apparently, he'd been living on U Smaltovny street in Prague's Holešovice neighbourhood, very close to us at the Globe, and used to come over in the evenings to relax.
In 2013, to mark the Globe’s 20th anniversary, I arranged a party at the old Holešovice space – now a Czech bookstore and coffeehouse called Ouky Douky. This summer, though, I was too busy with work and deadlines to organize anything for the 25th. Thankfully, Michael Sito, the Globe’s owner these days, picked up the mantle and threw a bash at the store’s current location (since 2000) on Pštrossova Street in the center of town.
It was a wonderful party on a perfect summer afternoon. I gave a short reading about the early life of the Globe and was followed up by Czech-American author Mark Slouka, who happens coincidentally to live on Janovského Street, just next to the site of the old Globe. The third speaker was the American poet, James Ragan, who may have been the very first reader we ever had back at the Globe in 1993.
In the audience, Alan Levy’s widow, Val, was sitting there smiling, and there were several other old friends around. A quarter century and it could have been yesterday.
*Most of the photos used in this post appeared originally on the Facebook group The (old) Globe Bookstore & Coffeehouse, Prague and are reprinted here with the permission of the owners. Keep scrolling down for more pictures.
Find part one of this post on the Globe here.
My father is on his last moments on earth today & seeing your post today with a photo credit for hanging on to that magazine I helped sell an ad in allowed me to publicly acknowledge his help in getting to Prague & Meeting so many of our dear friends.
One of the best periods of my life is related to The Globe, where I worked at the kitchen a couple of days per week between 1996 and 1998. I remember the permanent staff working there at the time (Tyson, Kuba, Rob, Bara, Tonya, Brad, etc.) as well as many people which were (like myself) working a few days a week or just passing by. There were always new faces, people from all over the world, also in the cafeteria. I met so many people at The Globe. There was a very special atmosphere, with all the young intellectuals and newcomers full of energy. Everybody went to The Globe sooner or later.
The Globe was an incredibly helpful place whether you were a looking for a job or a room, a friend, a musician for your band (it happened to me several times), an actor for your play, etc. As a worker I remember that I could borrow books.
Being from Mallorca, I once made a traditional dish called “coca de trampo” as “special of the day” but no one would order it as it sounded too exotic. Tyson suggested to change the name for “Mallorquian pizza”. Of course, it was finished in half an hour.
I even was allowed to make an exhibition of my little paintings for modest % on the sales.
In short: thank you to you all for opening such a wonderful place. I’m sure that it will be for ever in the heart of all the people who had the chance to spend time in there.
Lovely stories of remembrance. I first found the Globe in Jan 2011 when taking an English Lang teaching course. But I was first in Prague in 1992 for a weekend as a backpacker on a college trip through Europe. The 90s where an interesting time. I wish I had visited Europe more often. Through your 2 articles I can feel and see what it must have been like in those free feeling days when Czech was opening up to the world again. Not the tourist trap it is today. I found in the Globe a place to look through some books and have a good meal. Just so happened in 2015 and 2017 I was in town solo during Thanksgiving and both times the Globe found me a table. I most recently chose to have my one dinner there at the end of Aug when flying out of Prague. I know there are more stories of changing hands and what happened to the 5. In August, I was in Germany for a reunion of my old Army unit from the 80s – lots of old pictures and stories like those from you cafe where shared too. As we get older time to reflect but still look ahead to the roads to be traveled.
Blogging doesn’t generate much cash — in my case, none really at all — but it does have its real rewards. I came home last night to this email from an old acquaintance from The Globe days named Stephen. It’s these letters and messages that make it worthwhile. I pasted in a piece of the message below:
“I finished last night a book on the 17th century Swedish queen, Christina, and on its final pages the book mentioned Meduza, which reminded me of a certain cafe on Belgicka ul. in Prague, long since closed. And that pointed me to your two-part series on The Globe.
And that, in turn, gave me the opportunity to drop into your inbox and say hello and thank you for all of those great memories — and pictures. Fantastic. While life for me in Prague (1993-2000) was not all Champagne and roses it was a transformational time that positively changed the course of my life. That, as you wrote, cannot be revisited or replicated. That Prague is gone forever.”
I came to know your blog by chance today and I could not have been strucked harder by the past than this. I visited Prague in I think 1993/4 with my best mate Fabian. He knew Scott and Marketa because their families made friends back in the early 70s. We went by bike from Wuppertal (Western Germany) to Prague and it was a blast. Very cold, rainy weather but the hell of a good time! And yes, Ivanka probably had the most impressive smile I´d ever seen since then. I definitely had one time´ of my life there with the combination of booze, food, arts and literature. Stories that are still told at the campfire. :-).. Thank you soo much for that time warp. I will stay tuned with your blog! Best regards, Oliver
Hi Oliver, So happy you found the blog and enjoyed the story. And thank you for leaving a comment! Mark
I just happened upon your blog as I was reminiscing about my time in The Globe. A random internet search found this account of the cafe/bookshop’s history. I worked in the cafe for four months in 1994 and it was a coming of age experience for me. I turned 21 in its employ. It was so lovely to see the photos and the very many familiar faces. It made distant memories seem more recent. Really enjoyed reading this. Thanks so much.
“Globe” was certainly more than „OK“ then in 1995 for me. It was a portal to discovery of ourselves. I was 22, as my Scottish husband says (we live in Edinburgh), „climbing the (Berlin) wall“ from the Byzantium of the Orthodox world to what is now the “Global North” and the Baroque Borgia Pope’s succession in spirit. The times were truly different then in 1995. The young, we indulged ourselves in idealism of the piece between the successors of the two crusader fronts, Rome and Constantinople (some more than others). Turns out those hopes of transcending peace were in vane and the world or shall I better say “mass lunacy”crusade (Carl Gustav Jung) continues along the same lines… Well, as for me, I found true treasures at the Globe, the secret bookmarks in those shelved scriptures. I met a Swiss/Canadian journalist who took me to interpret for Slava Rostropovich, a tremendous talent conductor and cellist and a charmeur who kissed my hand. I met a Hollywood star who kissed my lips. I met the father to become of my sweet daughter. She is 22 this year and in returns to Prague often. To Prague we cheer, to the Globe of our young hearts!